From the Quai d’Anjou, it’s hard to imagine what lies behind the rather understated façade of number 17. Yet the Hôtel de Lauzun is one of the most remarkable private mansions on Île Saint-Louis. Built in the mid-17th century, it features approximately 1,310 square meters of decorative elements spread over two floors, including gilded wood paneling, French-style carved ceilings, Italian-style paintings, and salons opening directly onto the Seine. The City of Paris now showcases it as one of its great, little-known heritage treasures.
The story begins in 1656, when Charles Gruyn, a wealthy financier close to Nicolas Fouquet, had this residence built by the architect Charles Chamois. A few decades later, the mansion took the name of Antonin Nompar de Caumont, Duke of Lauzun, a figure at the court of Louis XIV known as much for his spectacular rise as for his escapades. The building was finally designated a Historic Monument in 1906 and then purchased by the City of Paris in 1928.
The Hôtel de Lauzun and the Mysterious Club des Haschischins
In 1842, Baron Jérôme Pichon acquired the mansion, which was then in a state of serious disrepair, and set out to restore it to its former splendor. Part of the apartments was rented to artists and writers, including Charles Baudelaire and Théophile Gautier.
A few years later, the former Hôtel Pimodan became the meeting place of the famous Club des Haschischins. Artists, writers, and intellectuals gathered there to experiment with cannabis in the form of food preparations and observe its effects. Théophile Gautier would recount these sessions in *Le Club des Haschischins*, while Baudelaire would later describe these experiences in *Les Paradis artificiels*.
Architecturally, the Grand Siècle-style decor remains intact, including an alcove bedroom, a Cavaillé-Coll organ, and several adjoining rooms overlooking the river. Another curiosity can be found in the inner courtyard. On one wall is what looks like a sundial. It is actually a meridian line, designed solely to indicate midday.
Today, the Hôtel de Lauzun is home to the Paris Institute for Advanced Studies and remains closed to the public, except for a few occasional events organized by the institute.
The façade and its wrought-iron balcony are still visible from the Quai d’Anjou. It’s a rather unassuming view for a building that has hosted Baudelaire, royal receptions, film shoots, and some of the best-preserved interior decor on Île Saint-Louis.
Location: Hôtel de Lauzun, 17 quai d’Anjou, 75004 Paris
Hours: Closed to the public; open only for select special events.