Just over two hours by car from Paris, you can discover one of the most unique villages in northern France. Parfondeval, in the Aisne department, is one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France” and stands in stark contrast to the medieval stone towns often found on this list. Here, the facades are red, the roofs are covered with slate, and the main square is arranged around a pond where frogs still croak.
Parfondeval, a red village in the heart of the Thiérache countryside
In the center of Parfondeval, large farmhouses surround the pond, which was once used for livestock farming, while the pastures, apple orchards, and hedgerows of the bocage begin almost at the end of the streets. This architecture of red brick and gray slate is typical of the Thiérache, a rural region located between the Ardennes and the Belgian border.
To explore the village’s history without missing any of its main buildings, simply take the Circuit de la Chouette. This 1.4-kilometer walk has twelve stops and passes by the old washhouse, the 19th-century Protestant church, and streets lined with farmhouses.
Parfondeval also houses a small, rather unexpected collection. The Maison des Outils d’Antan (House of Old Tools) features some 2,000 objects used in rural areas around 1900, ranging from woodworking to traditional ironworking. This private museum can be visited by appointment and makes for a great extension to your stroll, as it brings to life the daily life that once unfolded behind the village’s facades.
The most impressive building, however, remains the Church of Saint-Médard. Built in the mid-16th century, it features two turrets, a Renaissance-style stone portal, and a silhouette much more reminiscent of a fortress than a small country church. It is part of the vast network of fortified churches in Thiérache, built in a region regularly ravaged by conflict and pillaging.
The tour includes a visit to the old refuge room, where residents could take shelter with a few provisions when the village was under threat. An exhibition now tells this story, as well as that of the dozens of fortified churches still visible in the surrounding area. Access to Saint-Médard is free and open to the public year-round; guided tours are also organized on select Sundays during the summer.
All in all, this is the perfect little getaway for sunny days.