We often think we know all the unusual nooks and crannies around Paris… but some treasures remain almost secret. Such is the case of the Désert de Retz, a mysterious and poetic place located in Chambourcy, Yvelines. Not even an hour from the capital, this unique park, created at the end of the 18th century, invites you on a dreamlike journey between nature and surrealist architecture.
The little-known but magical Désert de Retz!
An Egyptian pyramid, a destroyed column, a stone tent or a ruined Gothic church: did you know that all these curiosities were actually to be found in the same park near the capital? Indeed, the Désert de Retz, nestled in the heart of an unspoilt woodland, is the setting for all these curiosities! Just 45 minutes from the capital by public transport, this unusual place combines bucolic escapism, unusual architecture and atypical walks. Open from spring to autumn, it’s particularly enjoyable in the summer months.
Created in 1774 by François Racine de Monville, an enlightened aristocrat with a passion for new ideas, the park was conceived as an initiatory stroll. Its 17 hectares of greenery and curiosities have attracted the interest of illustrious figures over the years. Marie-Antoinette is even said to have set her heart on the site, dreaming of similar gardens at Versailles.
As you’ll have gathered, it’s not exactly a desert, but at the time, this appellation was “often used to designate a place withdrawn into an enclosure that keeps it apart from the world”. In this haven of peace, there is vegetation, and lots of it! Along the walkway, you’ll find a beautiful flora composed of rare specimens. But beyond the greenery, it’s the “fabriques ” that arouse our curiosity. These architectural edifices, all more or less unusual, refer to a particular period, civilization or school of thought. So, as we stroll through the garden, we may come across a pyramid, a temple to the god Pan or an open-air theater. And to top it all off, there’s a huge 20-metre broken column in the middle of a clearing.
More than just a garden, a visit to the Désert de Retz is a journey back in time. A magical spot that’s perfect for a little getaway outside the walls of the capital.
Désert de Retz – Allée Frédéric Passy, 78240 Chambourcy – Access via RER A to Saint-Germain en Laye, then Bus R4 to Mairie de Chambourcy.